Is there anyway to fly a flag on an Armada?
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Flag on Armada
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K-Metal repair parts at CARiD
No matter what car do you drive, it still reqires maintanance or rapair from time to time.
Today we have a wide choice of brands to choose from, but not all of them are as reliable as the stock components.
If you are looking for quality replacement of a cracked headlight, broken mirror, bent rocker panel, or anythingelse, check out our section of K-Metal repair parts.
Click on the banner below to find a replacement part for your model:
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Let me know if any additional questions appear or you're looking for a quote.
I will be glad to assist you, please reply in comments below or PM me directly.
Today we have a wide choice of brands to choose from, but not all of them are as reliable as the stock components.
If you are looking for quality replacement of a cracked headlight, broken mirror, bent rocker panel, or anythingelse, check out our section of K-Metal repair parts.
Click on the banner below to find a replacement part for your model:
Let me know if any additional questions appear or you're looking for a quote.
I will be glad to assist you, please reply in comments below or PM me directly.
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New Member in Dallas - 2006 SE
Been inactive member for a while. Bought SE new in 2006 after looking at the Ford and Chevy and various other offering in class. Test drove the Armada, fell in love with it. Coming out of a Suburban, I still wanted a big vehicle as one had saved my life few years prior....and I wanted something substantial for the crazy commute in Dallas. Been a great vehicle. 153K now...haven't done anything except change the oil and put new tires on it. Only just recently did full break job...just because it seemed like it should probably need it...but mechanic said it could have gone another 20K. Fantastic vehicle ! Got some little squawks starting to pile up, so thought I'd turn to the experts i.e. other owners....to make my life a little easier instead of throwing myself to mercy of some of the ripoff artists. Already getting some invaluable maintenance tips.
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air ride sup is aired up like there is weight on it
hello all and would like to say Ive bought my first 2010 platinum 4x4 with tow package, has 68278 miles 1 owner, run great and just service all but rear diff so far. when I got suv month ago I noticed rear was very low and had lots of body roll at pot holes and curves etc. on interstate and rough country roads at normal speeds 55 mph. air shocks were completely depressed and motor wouldn't start to air up, hooked 12v to it and came straight on and aired up and shut off shortly, looked good lol and held pressure for 3 days now. but now its turning on at start up and running pumping up like there is load on it and looks like it has dang lift kit under now.Ive looked at other armadas in rear for stance and took pics to see if that little adjusting bar was in same postion as mine and looks identical in everyway. will it ever come down or just keep going up? don't want to bust bags or etc. does something need adjusting? does that adjusting rod need to be shorter or run up? any help would be very appreciated. Im in Knoxville TN area. oh is there anyway to manual let pressure out? thank you steve swaffer
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Texas Nissans Matagorda Beach Meet
MAY 21st join Texas Nissans in matagorda bay beach for our meet! Count as of 4/23/16 is 46 for sure vehicles coming and 63 maybes coming. Come find the event page on face book by typing "Texas Nissans matagorda beach meet" into search on Facebook and you'll find us or go to our "Texas Nissans" page or @tx_nissans Instagram page! Let's make it bigger!! ALL NISSANS WELCOME, the more the merrier!!! ![]()
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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3 Michelin LTX MS2 tires -275/60R20-Good tread!
275/60R20
Up for sale is 3 Michelin Tires. They came off of a 2008 Nissan Armada. These are 50000 mile tires, with only 18000 miles put on them. I just put new tires on simply because one tire out of my set had a bad patch job that couldn't be repaired (which is why there are only 3 tires.).
Local Pickup Only, unless you'd like to cover the shipping costs. Asking $300 or best offer.
Up for sale is 3 Michelin Tires. They came off of a 2008 Nissan Armada. These are 50000 mile tires, with only 18000 miles put on them. I just put new tires on simply because one tire out of my set had a bad patch job that couldn't be repaired (which is why there are only 3 tires.).
Local Pickup Only, unless you'd like to cover the shipping costs. Asking $300 or best offer.
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New in Lubbock, TX
Have a paid-off 07 and want to keep it awhile before we buy another.
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Rear Roof vents not blowing cold
Front AC works great, roof vents just blow air. Please help.
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Confused
We are in the process of shopping around for a new 2015 SUV and getting rid of our old minivan. My first choice was an Armada my hubby preferred a sequoia or a suburban over the Armada, but then he test drove the Armada and now wants that one!! We just can't seem to decide if we should really get 4x4 or if we should get the SL or Platinum? I have 5 kids and we want this vehicle to last 10 yrs or more without any major problems. Will this SUV be a very reliable car for our family? TIA
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Thank you & some tips for forum
First a thank you to the people who supply info here! Skip to bottom for tips I've learned.
I've learned a ton and fixed a ton of stuff all myself and saved a bundle. I am mechanically inclined if I've done it before, meaning I learn quickly, can do a lot, just have always learned as I go. But if I've never worked on a particular model car or not done a particular job I research it to death first, and this forum has been extremely helpful.
A month ago I bought a 2006 QX56 90k miles 4WD fully loaded.
Well, it's been a busy month! I had the drive vibration at 40+ MPH so many complain of and struggle finding. Take it from me check your front driveshaft U joints first! Cheap and mine had not one single needle bearing left in it, just powder and dust.
It tends to be the one near the transfer case that goes. I could tell it had been replaced before too. Completely fixed the problem, drives completely smoothe now. Very simple fix, can borrow a ball joint press free from parts stores, just watch some videos on YouTube to learn how to use it.
I decided to get real intimate, knowing I would have other things pop up and using being excited about my new toy as motivation, I took a Saturday and replaced the following:
Inner & outter tie for ends
Upper & lower control arms
Front Hubs
Front CV axles
Sway bar bushings & links
And front struts
Figured if I was going in the front end, I only wanted to go in once.
I discovered after replacing front struts which were completely shot, my back end was way too low. And then discovered my compressor was shot, bad part is I already bought new OEM rear air shocks from Internet, can't return them, guess I will sell them...
So this weekend I am completing the the conversion to Bilstein 5100's with Raybestos professional grade 589-1150 springs. I bought 2 inch Rancho spacers too, but not sure I will need them with new springs, we'll see, may have to sell those too.
I was also able to learn all the Nissan specific stuff for changing fluids which just made it easier, location of plugs, sizes, fluid capacities, etc. So now all fluids are fresh, forum made it much easier!
No telling how much I saved by doing it myself, and this forum was a tremendous help.
So here are my tips:
I've noticed my QX is not nearly as quiet as my Lexus GX which is also an 06. I could hear wind noise and the front doors rattled. Can adjust the latches and strike plates to get rid of rattle which is mentioned on here, but my real tip I haven't seen and made a HUGE difference is 3M silent door tape, simple to install and made my ride amazingly quieter.
Also if you strip a fill plug, I did, and after hours of being mad at myself, an idea hit. I got my vise grip pliers, set them right on the edge/lip of the fill plug, and loosened it right up with no problems! So don't sweat it, the lip on them makes this a simple alternative, honestly easier than using the hex key. I replaced it with a new one, but will probably always break loose this way in the future.
Repeat from above but very important, if you have a vibration at 40+ MPH, check your front driveshaft U joint. Simple easy fix. I know a few threads mention it, but I've seen so many threads in multiple forums describing my same issue, and rarely do people mention the U joint, just bringing it up for others. The U joint near the transfer case was completely obliterated, all bearings were ground to dust, and I could tell it had been replaced before, so that's 3 I know of in 90k miles.
A few things still escape me, I do have a power steering leak, but it looks to be coming from above the infamous pressure hose, so I'm not sure, but will investigate further soon.
My shifter makes a squeak that is unnerving when selecting gears about 50% of the time but can't find a single post about it, I'm going to try Lithium lube in the hole around the metal shifter post.
The molding around the outside of my front windshield doesn't stay down all the way, just looks aged and shrunken, but can find the part number for it or how to replace it. It's between the top of the cowl and the bottom of the windshield.
The trim on the bottom of the back windows is cracked and a square piece broke off, the chrome stick on is not an option, doesn't cover that part, but also can't find a part number for it.
Just thought sharing what I learned and what problems I'm still fixing might help someone else.
I've learned a ton and fixed a ton of stuff all myself and saved a bundle. I am mechanically inclined if I've done it before, meaning I learn quickly, can do a lot, just have always learned as I go. But if I've never worked on a particular model car or not done a particular job I research it to death first, and this forum has been extremely helpful.
A month ago I bought a 2006 QX56 90k miles 4WD fully loaded.
Well, it's been a busy month! I had the drive vibration at 40+ MPH so many complain of and struggle finding. Take it from me check your front driveshaft U joints first! Cheap and mine had not one single needle bearing left in it, just powder and dust.
It tends to be the one near the transfer case that goes. I could tell it had been replaced before too. Completely fixed the problem, drives completely smoothe now. Very simple fix, can borrow a ball joint press free from parts stores, just watch some videos on YouTube to learn how to use it.
I decided to get real intimate, knowing I would have other things pop up and using being excited about my new toy as motivation, I took a Saturday and replaced the following:
Inner & outter tie for ends
Upper & lower control arms
Front Hubs
Front CV axles
Sway bar bushings & links
And front struts
Figured if I was going in the front end, I only wanted to go in once.
I discovered after replacing front struts which were completely shot, my back end was way too low. And then discovered my compressor was shot, bad part is I already bought new OEM rear air shocks from Internet, can't return them, guess I will sell them...
So this weekend I am completing the the conversion to Bilstein 5100's with Raybestos professional grade 589-1150 springs. I bought 2 inch Rancho spacers too, but not sure I will need them with new springs, we'll see, may have to sell those too.
I was also able to learn all the Nissan specific stuff for changing fluids which just made it easier, location of plugs, sizes, fluid capacities, etc. So now all fluids are fresh, forum made it much easier!
No telling how much I saved by doing it myself, and this forum was a tremendous help.
So here are my tips:
I've noticed my QX is not nearly as quiet as my Lexus GX which is also an 06. I could hear wind noise and the front doors rattled. Can adjust the latches and strike plates to get rid of rattle which is mentioned on here, but my real tip I haven't seen and made a HUGE difference is 3M silent door tape, simple to install and made my ride amazingly quieter.
Also if you strip a fill plug, I did, and after hours of being mad at myself, an idea hit. I got my vise grip pliers, set them right on the edge/lip of the fill plug, and loosened it right up with no problems! So don't sweat it, the lip on them makes this a simple alternative, honestly easier than using the hex key. I replaced it with a new one, but will probably always break loose this way in the future.
Repeat from above but very important, if you have a vibration at 40+ MPH, check your front driveshaft U joint. Simple easy fix. I know a few threads mention it, but I've seen so many threads in multiple forums describing my same issue, and rarely do people mention the U joint, just bringing it up for others. The U joint near the transfer case was completely obliterated, all bearings were ground to dust, and I could tell it had been replaced before, so that's 3 I know of in 90k miles.
A few things still escape me, I do have a power steering leak, but it looks to be coming from above the infamous pressure hose, so I'm not sure, but will investigate further soon.
My shifter makes a squeak that is unnerving when selecting gears about 50% of the time but can't find a single post about it, I'm going to try Lithium lube in the hole around the metal shifter post.
The molding around the outside of my front windshield doesn't stay down all the way, just looks aged and shrunken, but can find the part number for it or how to replace it. It's between the top of the cowl and the bottom of the windshield.
The trim on the bottom of the back windows is cracked and a square piece broke off, the chrome stick on is not an option, doesn't cover that part, but also can't find a part number for it.
Just thought sharing what I learned and what problems I'm still fixing might help someone else.
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Manifold question
I've done some searching and read a few threads, I can tell some guys on here have the answers but my situation is different than others.
I know I have a manifold leak. I'm in Alabama, no smog or emissions testing. What my best fix available relative to cost? I'm thinking it will open some options not having to worry about CARB compliant.
I'm not looking for best upgrade, just best value to have a long lasting fix. If that's headers fine, I will take the increase in performance not against it, but increasing performance is not the goal.
I'm assuming some header is probably better than this pitiful excuse for a manifold. But if so, what's the easiest cheapest reliable one to install?
Should I use insulation wrap?
I know I have a manifold leak. I'm in Alabama, no smog or emissions testing. What my best fix available relative to cost? I'm thinking it will open some options not having to worry about CARB compliant.
I'm not looking for best upgrade, just best value to have a long lasting fix. If that's headers fine, I will take the increase in performance not against it, but increasing performance is not the goal.
I'm assuming some header is probably better than this pitiful excuse for a manifold. But if so, what's the easiest cheapest reliable one to install?
Should I use insulation wrap?
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transfercase parts "yoke"
I brought my 05 Nissan armada in for front u-joints. I was told the u-joints were bad and I also had slop in my transfer case at the yoke. The dealer said that the yoke in the transfer case was bad as well. They want me to buy a whole transfer case and not just a yoke. I only have 95000 miles. Can yokes not be replaced?
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Tow Package on a 2015
Hi Guys! I'm a new armada owner as of this weekend and I'm starting off on the wrong foot. Just got a used 2015 and was told the vehicle had the tow package. I called nissan usa and they said nope! So I'm working things out with the dealer but they are taking their time getting back to me.
The armada is an SV, has 4wd, the class 4 receiver hitch, wiring harness, tow mode button, transmission temp gauge, and even the plug for my brake controller. It doesn't have the self leveling shocks or compressor which weren't evident when I purchased it.
Also, I can't determine the gearing although I did some forum research and ran the vehicle up to 75mph and was under 2k rpm so I think this is a bad sign that I might have the 4.10 gear instead of 3.36 (did I get that right?). (If I slip the shifter from D to 4 I'm at 2100rpm at 70mph)
Anywho, I have a 4500 TT that we load up to 5500 and we have 5 people and a dog which would put us right at the 6500lb limit which I didn't want to be at.
I'm not positive what gearing I have and I checked the VIN sticker and the only things I don't understand are:
MPV 480679
Trim: G ZS40A
I'm willing to invest in the vehicle a bit so I'm wondering, is it possible to install the rest of the OEM heavy duty tow package? I don't even know what all is included in it... Do I have the gears swapped? Maybe some sort of transmission cooler added? I can get air bags but I have an equalizer leveling hitch which worked well on my Jeep Commander.
Suggestions? Comments? Answers?
Thanks everybody!
The armada is an SV, has 4wd, the class 4 receiver hitch, wiring harness, tow mode button, transmission temp gauge, and even the plug for my brake controller. It doesn't have the self leveling shocks or compressor which weren't evident when I purchased it.
Also, I can't determine the gearing although I did some forum research and ran the vehicle up to 75mph and was under 2k rpm so I think this is a bad sign that I might have the 4.10 gear instead of 3.36 (did I get that right?). (If I slip the shifter from D to 4 I'm at 2100rpm at 70mph)
Anywho, I have a 4500 TT that we load up to 5500 and we have 5 people and a dog which would put us right at the 6500lb limit which I didn't want to be at.
I'm not positive what gearing I have and I checked the VIN sticker and the only things I don't understand are:
MPV 480679
Trim: G ZS40A
I'm willing to invest in the vehicle a bit so I'm wondering, is it possible to install the rest of the OEM heavy duty tow package? I don't even know what all is included in it... Do I have the gears swapped? Maybe some sort of transmission cooler added? I can get air bags but I have an equalizer leveling hitch which worked well on my Jeep Commander.
Suggestions? Comments? Answers?
Thanks everybody!
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20" chrome clad wheel covers
2015 Armada Platinum Reserve - It was bound to happen. I got too close to the curb and it chipped the wheel skin. These rims aren't really chrome, they have a chrome skin stuck on the wheel that is actually made of plastic made to look like dark chrome. Anyway, I don't want to buy a $600 wheel. All I need is the fake chrome wheel cover. CAN NOT find it anywhere. I was wondering if any of you know where I can get one. I heard online that the reason Nissan went this cheap route was so it would be easier/cheaper to replace. But if you can't find it - what's the point? Any help from you guys would be greatly appreciated. thanks.
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WeatherTech Digital Fit Mats
Selling my used WeatherTech digital fit mats for the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd rows out of my Armada. Check out the listing on eBay. http://m.ebay.com/itm/WeatherTech-Di...712?nav=SEARCH
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Any Double Din kits for a 2006 qx56?
I just bought a 2006 QX56. I need to get bluetooth stereo going... i can't find any sort of double din kit for a qx56. Will an armada kit work? I'd love to get rid of the crappy nav screen too but that doesn't really matter.
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Brake shakes and pulls to right
Today I finally decided to get a certified 2014 Armada SV. But just after I finished all the paper work and drove it back home. I found the steering wheel shakes seriously and the vehicle pulls to right. I checked other threads on this forum, is this problem related to front rotor and alignment? I feel so bad right now. Any other 2014 or newer Armada have this problem? I thought the brake problem has already been fixed long time ago...
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2014 Armada brake shakes and pulls to right
Today I finally decided to get a certified 2014 Armada SV. But just after I finished all the paper work and drove it back home. I found the steering wheel shakes seriously and the vehicle pulls to right. I checked other threads on this forum, is this problem related to front rotor and alignment? I feel so bad right now. Any other 2014 or newer Armada have this problem? I thought the brake problem has already been fixed long time ago...
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Overhead console
The overhead console on my 2008 QX56 cracked right at the point it is supported in the front of the console. Just a plastic piece that broke off, but now the whole front of the overhead console is hanging down. It's cracked just in front of the flip down video monitor.
I took it to the Nissan dealership (closest Infiniti dealer is 2 hours away) and they said it could not be repaired, it would have to be replaced. To the tune of $1300. Has anyone else had this problem and managed to figure out a way to repair the cracked plastic? Or some other method to reattach the console so it isn't hanging down? Or does someone have a tan color overhead console for sale for something resembling a reasonable price?
I took it to the Nissan dealership (closest Infiniti dealer is 2 hours away) and they said it could not be repaired, it would have to be replaced. To the tune of $1300. Has anyone else had this problem and managed to figure out a way to repair the cracked plastic? Or some other method to reattach the console so it isn't hanging down? Or does someone have a tan color overhead console for sale for something resembling a reasonable price?
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Self Leveling suspension help
I have a 2006 Armada with the self-leveling suspension. A few months ago the compressor quit working. I unplugged it and tested the connector and only about 8 volts is getting to it. Should the compressor run 12 volts? If so, where is the power to the compressor coming from? I have seen where there should be a control module somewhere, but where is it? Does the module go out?
Also, to test the compressor, can I hot wire from the battery to the connector? I have tried to look for details on line but most places that discuss the system are somewhat confusing to me.
Thanks
Also, to test the compressor, can I hot wire from the battery to the connector? I have tried to look for details on line but most places that discuss the system are somewhat confusing to me.
Thanks
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